The Sartù di riso is one of the most iconic and theatrical dishes of Neapolitan cuisine, born at the crossroads of popular tradition and aristocratic refinement. Its origins date back to the late 18th century, during the Bourbon period, when French chefs—known as monsù—worked in the kitchens of Neapolitan noble families.
At the time, rice was considered a bland ingredient by the local population, who strongly favored pasta. To make it appealing to the aristocracy, the monsù transformed rice into an elaborate dish, enriching it with ragù, meat, eggs, cheese, and vegetables, and baking it into a spectacular molded form. The name sartù itself is believed to derive from the French word surtout, meaning “especially” or “above all,” emphasizing its role as a centerpiece dish.
Over time, Sartù moved from noble tables to home kitchens, becoming a celebratory dish prepared for Sundays and special occasions. Today, it represents the essence of Neapolitan cooking: generous, layered, patient, and deeply rooted in history.
Ingredients
For the Rice:
- 600-800g of Arborio or Carnaroli rice (about 2.5 to 3.5 cups)
- 60-125g of grated Parmesan cheese (about 1/2 to 3/4 cup)
- 1 whole egg plus 1 yolk
- Butter as needed (about 2-3 tablespoons)
- Breadcrumbs as needed (about 1/2 cup)
For the Neapolitan Ragù:
- 500g of beef brisket (about 1.1 lbs)
- 500g of pork ribs (about 1.1 lbs)
- 300g of pork sausages (about 0.66 lbs)
- 1 piece of pork rind
- 2 tablespoons of tomato paste
- 700g-1L of tomato puree (about 3 to 4 cups)
- 1 glass of red wine (about 8 oz)
- 1-2 onions
- Pine nuts as needed
- Raisins as needed
- Pecorino cheese as needed
- Parsley as needed
- Garlic as needed
- Extra virgin olive oil
For the Meatballs:
- 400g of ground beef and pork (about 0.88 lbs)
- 4 slices of bread soaked in milk
- 1 egg
- 1 clove of garlic
- 5-6 tablespoons of Parmesan cheese (about 1/4 cup)
- Chopped parsley
- Salt and pepper as needed
- Oil for frying
For the Filling:
- 200-250g of provola or fiordilatte cheese (about 1 to 1.1 cups shredded)
- 100-150g of peas (about 1/2 to 3/4 cup)
- 2-4 hard-boiled eggs
Preparation
1. Preparation of the Ragù:
The first step involves preparing the Neapolitan ragù, a fundamental element to flavor the rice and give character to the entire dish:
- Finely chop the onion and sauté it in a pot with extra virgin olive oil and/or lard.
- Add the pork ribs, beef brisket, and whole sausages, browning them well on all sides.
- Deglaze with red wine and let the alcohol evaporate.
- Add the tomato paste and puree, season with salt and pepper.
- Cover and cook over low heat for about 2-3 hours, until the meat is very tender and the sauce is well reduced and flavorful.
2. Preparation of the Meatballs:
The meatballs are a characteristic element of the sartù filling:
- Soak the bread slices in water, then squeeze them well.
- In a bowl, mix the ground meat with the squeezed bread, egg, minced garlic, parsley, Parmesan cheese, salt, and pepper.
- Form small meatballs, about the size of hazelnuts.
- Fry the meatballs in plenty of hot oil until golden brown.
- Drain them on paper towels to remove excess oil.
3. Preparation of the Rice:
- Cook the rice in plenty of salted water, draining it very al dente (about 5 minutes before the end of cooking).
- Season the rice with some of the ragù, add the grated Parmesan cheese and the egg (which will help bind everything during baking).
- Gently mix to avoid breaking the rice grains.
4. Composition of the Sartù:
- Generously butter a springform pan (traditionally ring-shaped, but a round pan is also fine).
- Sprinkle the pan with breadcrumbs, making sure they adhere well to the butter.
- Place about two-thirds of the seasoned rice in the pan, creating a uniform layer on the bottom and sides, leaving a hollow in the center.
- In the central hollow, arrange layers of: some meatballs, pieces of provola or fiordilatte cheese, cooked peas, slices of hard-boiled eggs, sliced sausage, and ragù.
- Cover the filling with the remaining rice, leveling the surface well.
- Sprinkle the surface with breadcrumbs and add a few butter flakes.
5. Baking:
- Bake in a preheated oven at 180-200°C for about 20-25 minutes, until the surface is golden and crispy.
- Let it rest for 5-10 minutes before carefully unmolding.
- Serve the sartù hot, sliced like a cake.