Sicily is not only the land of citrus and olives. Definitely not.
Hidden among its volcanic hills and ancient terraces lies with stones and lime stone rocks an extraordinary pomological heritage: the antiche varietà di pere siciliane, or ancient Sicilian pear varieties.
These fruits, now rare and often confined to the memory of elders or the branches of a few stubborn trees, once represented a cornerstone of rural life across the island especially for its resilience.
These rustic, drought-tolerant roots are perfectly adapted to our soil and climate, allowing us to practice dry farming—a method that respects the rhythms of nature and avoids irrigation. This not only makes our cultivation more sustainable but also enhances the flavor of the fruit. The pears that grow this way are more concentrated in aroma, texture, and sweetness, reconnecting us to authentic tastes long forgotten. In this practice, we find true regeneration—of soil, of biodiversity, and of cultural memory.
On our farm in June, when the first warm breezes of summer begin to stir the fields, we still harvest these heirloom pears. In this article, we explore the history, botany, and gastronomic uses of some of the most fascinating pear varieties Sicily has preserved – and how, as Sicilian farmers, we still honor the proverb: “Al contadino non far sapere quanto è buono il formaggio con le pere” (“Don’t let the farmer know how good cheese is with pears”). Well, we know. And we’ll tell you all about it.
A Living Gene Bank: Sicily’s Pear Biodiversity
Sicily once boasted more than 120 traditional pear cultivars. Many of them, adapted to microclimates and soil conditions unique to the island, are now endangered or nearly extinct. But a few still thrive in small orchards, conserved by passionate growers, research stations, and community efforts. These include the pear Coscia, Spinedda, Butirra, Facci Bedda, and Ucciardona – each distinct in appearance, flavor, and use.
These pears are not mass-produced or engineered for shelf life. They represent centuries of selection, passed down through generations. Their names often come from Sicilian dialects or local traditions: Facci Bedda (“beautiful face”), Spinedda (“little thorn”), Ucciardona, San Giovanni, and Settembucca (“seven-in-a-mouth”).
Pear Profiles: A Closer Look at the Classics
Coscia dell’Etna
Perhaps the best-known Sicilian summer pear, Coscia is a small, early-maturing variety with a delicate green-yellow skin and a pink blush on the sunward side. Its white flesh is crisp, sweet, and fragrant, making it perfect for fresh consumption. It thrives on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna and is harvested from late June to early July.
Spinedda (Spinelli)
One of the oldest and most rustic pears in Sicily, Spinedda has a tough, fibrous texture and a thick skin that turns reddish on the side exposed to the sun. It is picked in late October and traditionally hung in strings or garlands (pennule) to dry and ripen slowly through the winter. Not ideal for fresh eating, Spinedda pears are commonly boiled in must or wine, used in savory dishes like stewed rabbit or stockfish, and made into intensely flavored jams or preserves.
Butirra Estiva (Pira Mputiri)
This summer variety gets its name from the buttery texture of its pulp. The word “butirra” comes from the French “beurré,” indicating the smooth, melt-in-the-mouth quality of its white, juicy flesh. The fruit is medium to large, with a thin green-yellow skin and a very sweet aroma. It matures from late July to August and is best eaten fresh, but can also be used in desserts and compotes.
Facci Bedda (Bella Donna)
A small, early summer pear from the Bronte-Maniace area, Facci Bedda means “beautiful face” in Sicilian. Its thin skin turns golden-yellow with a bright red cheek when exposed to the sun. The fruit is firm, juicy, and sweet, often used in a traditional risotto with walnuts and aged Sicilian tuma cheese. It is harvested as early as late June.
Ucciardona
Once the most cultivated pear in Sicily, Ucciardona is a large, irregularly shaped fruit with a rough, russeted skin and creamy, fragrant flesh. Picked in late October, it ripens slowly and can be stored until March. This pear is ideal for winter eating and is used both fresh and cooked. It has a long-standing presence in Sicilian rural history and is still recognized as a traditional food product (PAT).
From Orchard to Table: Traditional Uses and Recipes
In Sicilian rural culture, pears were rarely just eaten raw. They were stewed, baked, candied, dried, and cooked in both sweet and savory dishes. The tough Spinedda was softened by simmering in wine or mosto, the pear Facci Bedda was folded into creamy risotti, and Butirra pears were peeled and served chilled with honey for summer desserts.
Candied pears were once a popular winter treat, especially the small, firm varieties like Settembucca. In Messina, pears were added to fish dishes and meat stews for a subtle sweetness. Even today, older Sicilians remember boiling pears in mulled wine for holidays, or stringing them in cellars to ripen slowly through the cold months.
And then, of course, there is the cheese.
The Farmer Knows: Pears and Cheese
“Al contadino non far sapere quanto è buono il formaggio con le pere.” This Italian old proverb warns not to let the farmer know how good cheese is with pears. The irony is: farmers have always known.
One of the most cherished snacks in the countryside was a piece of crusty bread, a slice of aged caciocavallo (specially if you are in Sicily) and a ripe pear – often eaten under a tree, in the shade of the orchard. The salty, firm cheese contrasts perfectly with the sweet, juicy fruit. And we still enjoy it this way, especially during harvest.
So if you’re visiting Sicily and want to experience something truly traditional, come visit our farm this June. You can walk through rows of ancient pear trees, taste varieties that exist nowhere else, and enjoy a rustic pairing of pears, bread, and caciocavallo that has fed generations.
Come hungry. Leave with a new respect for pears.
All varieties mentioned are still cultivated on our farm, in limited but lovingly preserved numbers. Contact us if you’d like to arrange a visit or taste our seasonal products.